Day 18 (Beauty defined)

Day 18
July 9, 2006
Grand Canyon

Our third day at Grand Canyon dawned with a clear blue sky and a chill in the air. The ravens serenaded us as if cued by the first light. They seem huge compared to the crows that we’re used to back home. Perhaps they’re bigger than usual because they are so well fed in the campground—they certainly get a generous helping of scraps after a campsite is vacated.

Frank and his dad went for a sunrise hike on the Rim Trail starting at Yavapai Point, heading west to Grand Canyon Village, and then returning to the campground by way of the park’s newly-established Greenway, a 10-foot-wide trail that parallels the rim about a half mile from it.

We ate a quick breakfast upon returning from the hike and then we set out for the Hermits Rest Route at the park’s west end. This was only accessible by park shuttle, but because we got an earlier start than yesterday, there was no waiting, which we all appreciated. We rode the shuttle to Pima Point where Frank, Norm and Sessy hiked the Rim Trail 1.1 miles west to Hermits Rest. Sylvia, Elliot and Emily rode the bus there and waited for us.

The Grand Canyon is truly huge by any measure. It is about 1 mile deep, averages ten miles in width (up to 18 miles across in places), and is 277 miles long. The elevation of the North Rim is about 8,000 feet, 1,000 higher than the South Rim, which makes the views from the south looking north even more spectacular than the otherwise might be.

In addition to its size, what makes Grand Canyon special is the variety of rocks here. The stone walls vary in color from deep maroon to almost white, with virtually every shade of tan, beige and brown as well. The oldest exposed stone is 350 million years old. When you add the assorted shades of green that the vegetation provides and top it off with glimpses here and there of the muddy Colorado River, it’s accurate to describe Grand Canyon as a rainbow of earth tones. One frequently can’t decide whether to simply pause to take it in or try (to no avail) to capture it on film. After the first 48 hours, we already have the feeling that four nights here won’t be enough. Put Grand Canyon on the list of places you have to see.

We returned to the campsite for lunch under completely clear blue skies and a full sun that was so warm we felt like spiders trying to traverse a hot car hood. We took refuge from the midday heat inside our trailer and marveled once again how much more comfortable it was as soon as we got in the shade. We spent the next few hours reading (Elliot and Sessy), making journal entries (Frank) and drawing pictures (Emily). There were a couple of naps in there, too.

With another thunderstorm threatening shortly before dinner time, we decided to go out to eat. After briefly considering our options, we decided to go to the restaurant at Bright Angel Lodge.

The van wouldn’t start. We got a jump start from our very helpful and friendly campground neighbor, Terry, and drove around for a few minutes to let the battery charge up before driving to Bright Angel, where we were given a booth overlooking the canyon and had a nice meal. The car started after dinner, much to our relief.

After dinner we went by Mom and Dad’s room to take showers and hang out during a gentle rain. We drove “home” after dark and went to bed. Another night without a campfire.